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Friday, August 19, 2016
1921, Mount Dora
I should probably take a breath and write about this place when I have more energy, but, I'm too excited and I want to be the first to weigh in on this excellent new endeavour. It just opened last week. It is on 4th and Baker. It is run by Norman Van Aken of Norman's at The Ritz. They describe it as modern Florida cuisine. The menu consists of about six bar snacks, six appetizers and eight main courses. They had things like flounder carpaccio, crab cocktail, Florida chowder, chaufa (Peruvian fried rice) with octopus, red snapper, grouper, duck, steak, etc. I chose a Caesar salad (mainly because it was the cheapest thing) and Fried Cornish Hen with mac and cheese and cola flavored collards. The salad was phenomenal. It cost $8. It was huge. Crisp romaine. Tiny croutons (I usually toss those). A refreshing dressing that was more citrus flavored than anchovy flavored. Beautiful. The hen was so big that I questioned whether they subbed in a chicken. They said it was sourced near by and was a CGH. I actually would have preferred a whole (this was a sectioned breast and drum quarter), tiny fowl. This one didn't have much flavor. They said they brined it. Not sure if that unlocked or blocked the natural flavor. The batter was sweet. I never found out what they put in it. The crust came off too easily, so, it either was too wet when they dipped it or the oil wasn't hot enough. The collards were very sweet. It also seemed like there was some other element (other than cola) in the mix. Some kind of stewed fruit or veg. They were very good and I'm not a "sides" guy. The piece de resistance though was the mac and cheese. Outrageous. Maybe the best in the world. That is right. THE WORLD. It is some concoction of elbow macaroni (cooked perfectly) and manchego and another cheese that one guy said started with a F and another said was cave something or other. It came in a ramekin. Big portion of a potent side. The meal cost $24. Prices are understandably high. I think they topped out at $40. But, you really only need a main or two apps/snacks. They don't pull the usual BS of high prices AND tiny portions. The place looks nice. They did the best they could. White walls. Tables made out of tree stump cross sections. Gold framed art. It reminded me of a Klimt painting. Not sure if Norman is Austrian, but, I have seen this type of near Eastern oriental influenced Continental decorating in many Austrian homes. It was a style craze in the early twentieth century (I think. Maybe earlier). The one element I didn't like was the drapery in the middle and end of the main room. They just seemed old and dirty and a tad too Arab-esque. The space is divided into three sections. The main room is "down stairs". It is the biggest. It seats about sixty. Lighting is a little low there. There is also a bar (with an outside patio with additional seats at the bar) with seating around it. And a room between the bar and the entrance. It seats about thirty. Oh and a private room. The kitchen is open. You see it from the entrance. Tons of staff. The walls on the outside are also white. You enter on 4th into a little alcove. The service was good. Plenty of knowledgeable staff who are engaged. My waiter commutes from Winter Park for the chance to work with these people. They have a uniform (chambray shirts and jeans). The food came out at a decent pace. You will probably need reservations in the future (except bar area), but, they fit me in at a table even though I had flip flops on and road beard. The crowd was a mish mosh. White haired, hippie artists, Brazilians, frumpy locals (dressed up and not dressed up), etc. I wonder how long they will allow this to go on. I guess I hope they don't become detached from the community that surrounds them. Time will tell. In any case, run don't walk to be part of this experience. Definitely a destination spot. It will be on the Best of 2016 list.
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