Bulla, Winter Park

It's not often that something comes out of the blue that excites me. Even less so if the term "tapas" is associated with it. And along comes a place from a Stuart Scott catch phrase. Boo-ya (as it is pronounced) opened on Orlando Ave (across from Hillstone in the spot where they tore down that old hotel that had the something Fox bar) last week. I tried it for lunch yesterday. It is an outreach of restauranteurs from Coral Gables. To refer to it as a tapas joint does a disservice to what it really is. It is a continental Spanish restaurant. The tapas are just the appetizers here. The twelve they serve at lunch are predictable. However, if they are as good as the gazpacho ($6) I started with then who can complain. The gazpacho was velvety pleasure. Very pureed. The waitress claimed that they don't adulterate it with oil or dairy and if that is case then it is a real accomplishment. Maybe even healthy. They serve it in a glass and sprinkle a few crouton crumbs on top. Simple and elegant. Controlled flavor. I went all in for the main course. I had the Black Grouper on Soy Quinoa with a caper butter sauce (Mero con Quinoa) at $18. It was perfect. The grouper was probably pan fried and finished in the oven. Two nice hunks (so you don't wonder if it is from another thinner fish). They were cooked perfectly. The quinoa was tiny. I suspect that they buy a superior type of quinoa. That, like most things tiny, it costs them more. These little guys displayed (what I suspect is the heart of the "grain") little bits that could trick you into thinking they were poppy seeds. And the portion was enormous. Two or more cups worth. It may be the first time I left a "tapas" place feeling satiated. I know because it isn't a tapas place. The sauce accented the fish. Not too much. No clumsiness. The capers and what I think were shallots (though they tasted like something else that is white) added some nice color and flavor. Although, not described on the menu and a surprise to my waitress, the quinoa had some finely cut baby (going the extra mile again) asparagus in it. I'm not sure how the soy affected the taste of the quinoa (maybe just enhanced its color), but, it was also used conservatively. Not salty. I don't recall a lot of quinoa being served in my travels to Spain. My waitress said the owners also have a Peruvian restaurant, so, maybe this is more of a Peruvian dish (where they use quinoa a lot). In any case, who cares? It was great. Now I did see that they jump the price to around $27 (and with other dishes on the lunch menu)at dinner, but, maybe the portion is bigger. The rest of menu runs the gamut of salads (really seafood salads), sandwiches, one burger, charcuterie (nice choices), cheese (nice choices), and platters such as salmon, beef, chicken, shrimp, etc. Six of those ham/sausage choices. Six cheese choices. 3 salads (ie octopus). Ten platters. A thoroughly workable mix. A one sided menu that offers enough diversity, yet, ensures consistency. The beer and wine menu was also well thought out and the wine list is curated well. I had only tried about 5% of the mostly Spanish (some US) options. They also canvas the region. A great learning opportunity. Beers were almost all at $6. Wines had a mark up of around three times retail. They start at around $35 and top out at around one hundred and change. They have one bottle at $320. The space is divided into four areas and a patio (street side) that seat about forty people in each. I sat in the back next to the open kitchen. The hostess didn't give me any guff about it either (and it was pretty full). There was a "private" dining area to the side of me. The front area is divided into a bar area with high tops between it and the area I was in and a high top area to the side of it. The decor is Moorish. There is a geometric, black "wall/screen" (is that a lattice?) that "cuts" the space in half. The private room had decorative plates on the wall. The ornamentation is subtle. some framed photographs. The ceiling tiles have some spaghetti type yarn motif. I think my half booth "couch" was white. The bar area does seem like they used the same interior designer that has fitted out some other restaurants in the area. It's not bad though. The cutlery and plates were chic. Service was great. My waitress had an answer for nearly all my questions and her colleagues were always asking me if I needed anything (ie refills). And if that wasn't enough, I spied Carrot Top eating on the patio when I left. Haven't see his collagen injected face in a while. A friend of mine has a great story about him walking around WP in short shorts. The one issue may be parking. Once this place gets the following it deserves (and other spaces in the strip mall get tenants), I doubt the lot behind the restaurant we suffice. I think I heard that the developer is going to build a multi-level garage though. I think he was fighting the town on its size. That will help. So, I don't think I need to tell you that this is a great (and unanticipated) addition to the CF food scene. It will be on my Best Of list and I will go back. I may even make it a point to try their SF locations. Boo-ya! RIP Stuart Scott. Too bad you didn't get a chance to call this one.