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Sunday, March 9, 2014
Cress, Deland
I stopped by here last Wednesday night on a lark because I found a parking space right in front of it. Before I left on a trip, I called in and the recording said no reservations until March 6th. I thought I'd try anyway. I begged for some take out (I can never make thing work to get in here) and they did me one better. They found me a table. Even in my scruffy, end of a road trip, condition. They started me with an amuse bouche of some kind of vegetable pate. It was fine. I was going to go escargot and gnocchi with pork cheeks because that damn Bellini's pizza already filled me up. Then I remembered the head chef is Indian, so, I had to try his Panang (they spell it Phanaeng) Curry. I associate it with Thai food, but, he called it a curry so I figured it may be Indian too. It was unbelievable. Maybe the best I've ever had. It (the sauce) was coconut milk with tomatoes and hot peppers. I had the fish (Cobia) as the protein. It was thick and buttery. Two big pieces. It also had zucchini, squash, peppers, potatoes, fried basil, garlic, and other goodies in it. It came with a piece of Papadam on top. Wonderful plating (bowling). It came with a type of basmati rice that was of a shorter grain than I had seen before (another piece of Papadam on top) and some Naan triangles. I didn't love them. They westernized them herbs and oil. I would also question if they were baked in a Tandoor. It cost $17. That totally filled me up. I couldn't even finish the rice. However, I had ordered the gnocchi too. I got that to go. I had a taste before bed and the rest for breakfast. I was going to save it for dinner, but, my stomach said "no can do's-ville baby doll" and it was polished off expeditiously. The gnocchi were exquisite. It's not often you can have the starch outshine the pork. The pork was no slouch itself. Big pieces of delicate cheek meat. The gnocchi were made of potato and herbs and melted in the mouth. It even survived the microwave. The sugo/sauce was more tomato-y than I'm used to. A nice kick. I associate sugos more with a meat base. Who cares. It was awesome. The ricotta was also superior. The place isn't uptight. It's kind of shabby chic. It seats about forty. It was full-ish. They did find room for a few stragglers. No one was too dressed up. It seemed like a lot of locals. Older locals. This place is definitely one of the top ten restaurants in Central Florida. I believe the head chef won a James Beard award in '11 and last year. I think he is actually in the kitchen. He's also not the only competent chef at work. I think he has an respected sous chef and I think the wife is involved some how. They have a nice wine and beer menu too. Everything is well thought out and distinctive. They don't beat you over the head with their bona fides. They don't brag about saving the world through their "process". They just deliver. Most worthy of a visit. A destination spot.
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