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Thursday, March 27, 2014
Smiling Bison, 50 (Moved to Sanford)
I grabbed a snack here (just under the wire -2 pm) during their new lunch hours. I had a chicken fried chicken sausage for $11 because I was already full and the kitchen was closing. I had a nice chat with the staff and management while I waited. I tried a bite in the car so I could judge it at its best. I would have downed the whole thing, but, I restrained myself (or my waist band/abs did). It was great. I have to confess that any fried chicken sandwich gets me because that was the best thing they served at boarding school. They opened up a grill my senior year (to squeeze more money out of us) and the fried chicken sandwich was unforgettable. Mostly because it wasn't Shepard's Pie or some other slop that the townie cooks or our own under-formers didn't jizz into or put wasps or condoms in. You knew it was frozen safe and then fried to a point that would eviscerate any evil intention. So, I have a love for fried chicken because of that. Their chicken sausage seemed freshly ground and cased. The bun was large and buttered. They added mayo and pickles and lettuce or cabbage. The only problem was the sticker shock. I know it was a sausage and not a dog, but, that extra TLC may not deserve the mark up. $9 maybe. And I think therein lies the problem. They serve mainly food truck type items (more extensive stuff for dinner). I think they are going to find that the average customer isn't going to get their raison d'etre and will be doubly scared by the ambitious menu and the prices. They will get foodies and hipsters. For some reason alot of these non-corporate types seem to have unlimited access to cash for these extravagances and weed. The closer to the poverty line people are, the less they seem to bitch about prices. I'm not sure if it is a lack of financial acumen or trying to peacock or an accessible indulgence or a nihilistic acceptance that they world is going to shit on them, but, they pay to play. I just hope for these guys that there are enough of them to keep the poutine train moving. Most things were funkified snacks - poutine, terrine, sausages, burgers (I'm drawing a blank). It's a place that smacks of a chef with carte blanche. I'm sure it's only the freshest ingredients from the best places. I'm sure it's all made from scratch. I'm sure it's made daily. That's great. Just remember that that may be overkill for the level of food that is on the menu. It's like obsessing over a water color. It may be energy/talent directed at the wrong medium. Re-inventing pub food was clever about five years ago. Now it has lost the whimsy that made you pay an extra 50% for a plate. Now it has a past. A past that at best allows the customer to compare it to a library of memories or at worst bores them. In any case, I think the chef has talent and their heart is in the right place. I just think that the category may have jumped the shark for me and especially at $11. The place is across from The Roxy on Bennett (across from the small airport on 50). It seats about sixty. It's the old Redlight Redlight building. It was clean. They serve beer and wine (specialized). The last call wings are supposed to be Buffalo, NY good.
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