I am going to start listing these notes on their own because the way it is being done now is stupid. Makes it hard to find on my site and probably annoys readers who just want Central Florida info. Plus it seems to confuse the fuck out of AI.
I flew to Paris CDG through Newark on UA for $581 (really $431 b/c I used a credit). As usual they had issues. Here we were a half hour late taking off to NJ. Just because. We took off from the Int'l runway? No wifi. No entertainment. Boarding in NWK, they were making people check bags. Haven't seen that on an Int'l flight ever. Let each attendant have their own locked compartment! Then we had to wait one hour for a cargo weight issue. The food on the flight poisoned me. On the way back, they pawned us off (though I booked through their site) to Lufthansa and their bitch offspring Discover. I had to go through Frankfurt. The first flight was fifteen minutes late taking off. The second was an hour late because of a door issue and then missing PAPERWORK! We seemed to have landed at the runway as far away from Terminal C as possible. Then we waited a half hour to deplane. They didn't explain why. I should say here that I took this trip to make up for one that Milton screwed up last year (and Paris was the cheapest way in).
At CDG, I took a train from T2 to Lille Europe for $41E. First class was 2E more so I did that. Just went to a machine and bought the next departure. This is a big benefit of CDG. I would transit from here if you can. They go to many cities from there. Skip Paris until the end of your trip. If I went to the other areas in France (ie Normandy) that I was considering first, I would have had to pay to go to Paris and switch stations. I stayed at the Hotel Lille Europe (Expedia 8.8) for $95. Lille has two stations. They are barely 100 yards apart. This was in between. I checked fares to different cities. I toured Lille. I went to Eglise St Maurice, Hotel de Ville, Porto de Paris, Palace de Beaux Arts, Prefecture, Citadelle Vauban, Cathedrale, Vielle Bourse, Opera, Place Charles de Gaulle, etc. I decided to buy a ticket to Brussels because it was the cheapest at 25E by far and try for Ghent of Antwerp from there. That was the right call. Inter-country tickets were way more expensive and limited. I was so tired and it started to rain, so, I bought food and wine and beer at Carrefour and booked a hotel in Antwerp and went to bed. I had driven through Lille before and thought it looked industrial. It was very good. Very cute. Birthplace of Charles de Gaulle.
The next day I took the train to Brussels Midi Zuid (only 30 minutes). There I bought a first class (2E more) ticket that allowed me to go anywhere in Belgium. I just took it to Antwerp. I had driven through there once before. I missed most everything. The station is a sight unto itself. I went to the booking office because the machine was confusing me. It was good that I did because they said they would be working on the tracks during the weekend (next day) and the ticket I would have bought would have been invalid. So, I had to pay almost 50% more for an inter-city ticket (37E). I stayed at the Trip Inn Eden (Expedia 7.6) near the station for $78. I walked to the Peter Paul Ruebens Home, Kathedraal, Grote Markt (square), Stad Huis, Schelde (waterway), Het Steen (castle), Mas Museum and Opera. There is some famous statue a bit farther up the waterway. I was too tired. I bought some food and wine and beer at Okay City. Antwerp was cute as well. I should state here that all the hotels I stayed at were doing the extra tax due thing and didn't have USB plugs.
The next day I grabbed some McD (McChicken with bacon!) and walked around the station. I took the train to Rotterdam. The station is a modern wonder. I stayed at the Hotel Van Walsum (Expedia 8.8) for $113. Rotterdam was bigger. This hotel was about half way between the station and the water. I walked past the Depot Boijmans Museum through Witte de Withstraat to the Maritime Museum and over Laurens Kerk and the Urban Surf to the Markethal. I had an oyster for 3E and herring for 3E at Andalus Fish. The herring was great. Not fishy. Sweet. I had it once in Amsterdam (and pickled). I don't remember loving it this much. I also had some free cheese at Cromwijk Kassedok and from Henry Willig's (I guess he's Dutch - these shops were everywhere) Cheese & More. I walked back towards the Maritime Museum and over to the Erasmusbrug (bridge). Across and to the right to the dock area. Back across the bridge and left to another port area and a tower called Euromast. Then back to the hotel. Some food and wine and beer from Albert Heijn (their main supermarket). It was some holiday, so, it was very busy. I should state at this point that it had drizzled just a bit up to this point. From this point on it got colder and drearier and drizzlier for most of the trip. Rotterdam (most of these cities) was very diverse. Big food culture. Great architecture. I missed some attractions. I'll get back to them...
The next day I passed by Paulus Kerk on the way to the station. I walked around looking for an ATM. Never found one. In the whole city! I bought a 5.60E ticket to Delft. In Delft I found an ATM. I saw the Stad Huis, Nieuwe Kerk, Vermeer Home Location, Maria Van Jesse Kerk, Vermeer Center, Molen de Roos (windmill), Oude Kerk and back to the Markt where they were had set up stalls. I had a Dutch Ham Sandwich with arugula and onion and curry mustard for 7E at a stall called Het Lekkerste Broodje. Only there for about 90 minutes. Back to the station where I bought a ticket to Haarlem for 14E. Delft was small. Cute. In Haarlem, I stayed at the Nui Dairy Holiday Inn (Expedia 9.2) for $117. I walked to the city center and the Grote Markt and the Stadhuis and the St Bavo Kerk. Then over to the Binnen Spaarne (canal) and over to the Frans Hals Museum and Verwey Museum. I should say here that I will tell you if I actually paid and went into any of these. They were all over 10E. Then back to the canal and the Teylers Museum that I walked by. A different way to the Grote Markt (past a music hall) and to the hotel. I stopped for a grilled sausage sandwich at Het Broodjus Huis for 3E because all these youngins were lined up when I first walked by it. Got some food and wine at Albert Heijn. Watched US Open. Haarlem was also cute.
The next day I bought a 7E ticket to Amsterdam. I've been here multiple times. I only chose here because I was ahead of schedule and had done the major destinations and was trying to get to elsewhere via train or plane. Flights from Schipol were no bargain and going through Utrecht became an issue ($300 hotel rooms). I was also going to try for a town nearby called Marken. It took a change over bus instead of a train and was relatively expensive (an all day bus card just under 20E), so, I declined the opportunity. I stayed at the Hotel Old Quarter (Expedia 7.8) for $105. I didn't realize how close it was to the station (and Red Light). I walked through that. Saw one hot girl. Got some friets at Fable Friet for 4E. Oude and Zuider Kerks. Chinese area. Walked an area to the left (coming out) of the station that I'll call a harbor. Through Dijks Park (I think this is newish) to the Maritime Museum and back. Then bought some food and wine at Albert Heijn at the harbor. The main tenant there is a cool looking Doubletree Hotel (and Booking.com HQ). Got a little tipsy and walked the Red Light and over to the City Center.
The next day I walked back along that route. Was offered a free one at 10am. Surprised they were still working. I was looking for a different hierarchy of need (food) and it started raining. Never found (interesting/appropriate) food. Too early. Rushed to the station because of the rain. Bought a 12E train ticket to Hoorn. Stayed at the Hotel de Keiserskroon (Booking 8.0) for $113. I chose here because I wanted to do something north of Amsterdam on the water. I had only been to Edam. This was the second northiest and had a museum (Westfries). The other option didn't. That was the reasoning. It turned out to be closed for repairs. It rained all day. I suffered through a walk to the Grote Kerk and an Albert Heijin for lunch. Then another walk at dinner to the Westfries and over to the Haven (harbor) and AH for dinner and wine. It was a very small town. Cute. You can pass through. Or just pass.
The next day I bought a ticket (just one machine and no people) to Den Haag for 22E. I had been there before. Had to go there to get to a beach location called Scheveningen. Plus working my way back to France. I bought two bus/tram passes for 9E at the station. and plotted routes to other cities at the ticket office (computer). Walked into the city. Had a 5E veggie burger combo (just to be different) from BK because theirs was the best/cheapest in NL. As opposed to their prices in every other country. Over to the Plaats. Pond in front of the Binnenhof (Parliament). Over to the St Jacobs Kerk and to a main street with a statute called Haggse Harry. Back towards the station past a building with cranes around it. Took the 9 tram (3km - not walkable) to De Pier in Scheveningen. Checked into the Fox Hotel (Expedia 8.6) for $99. Walked the pier and beach. It had all these rides, etc. Like a cheese-y English or Jersey-ish/Daytona-ish sea side town. Lots of shells. Walked the north side of the beach. Weather threatened. Grabbed a Lana Sandwich (curried chicken with potatoes and long beans) for 6E at Lana's Surinam Kitchen at a food hall on the boardwalk by the pier. My first Surinamese food. Basically West Indian fare. Bought some food and wine at the AH. Got tipsy and walked the south side of the esplanade to a lighthouse at sunset. That was nice. Learned of Charlie Kirk murder.
The next day I took the tram back to the station. Thankfully, I asked information about train stuff and they said I should still buy my ticket from the domestic office. There really was no international office or machine. I bought a ticket to Brussels for 39E. You had to transfer in Rotterdam to get out of the country. This ticket allowed me to exit in Rotterdam and come back in. This was good because I wanted to stay there that night, but, the weather and hotel availability was bad. Why I settled on Brussels. It started to drizzle. I hightailed it to the Markthal. In the hub bub of the crowds, I had missed the Cube Houses. A collection of yellow slanted cubes on top of each other. Cool. Then over for lunch. The first stop was Bapao & Bobo. I espied them on the first visit. Too long a wait then. They had a hot pot where they dip skewered items into the broth called Chuan Chuan. I looked it up and this and the next thing seem to be their thing. The lady said Shanghai, but, I think there was a double language issue. I did order the steamed then pan fried 20 piece thumb fried Baopo with pork. Little dumplings. Excellent. There shouldn't be a place where this isn't. Get on it! They cost 9E. Internet says it is an Indonesian thing. Or unique to this stall. I then just grabbed a local thing called a Kalfs Vlees (veal) Kroket at Bram Landage for 2E. Then back to Andalus Fish for another round of herring for 3E. Back to the station past the Stadhuis. Rain. It was too rainy to walk to the place where the Pilgrims left for England before America. I exited at Brussels Midi Zuid. Bought a ticket (possibly improperly) from a machine at the international ticket office to Lille Flandres for 20E. Stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn City Center (Expedia 8.4) for $101. Walked past the Porte de Hal. Over to the Palais de Justice and an area with a view by a ferris wheel (The View). Down the street past Square de Petit Sablon and Eglise Notre Dame des Victoires au Sablon and Magritte Museum. Right onto Rue de Namur. It started to rain, so, I missed out on the Royal Palace just ahead because I didn't bring the umbrella. Not sure if I had seen that before. Right onto Avenue de la Toison d'Or to the hotel. Very nice shops there. Food and wine from Delhaize. 9/11 moment of reflection.
The next day I went to the station only to find out that there was no direct train back to Lille like the one I took there. I had to catch some dingy local train that took three times as long and had to change in some town called Tournai. I stayed again at the Hotel Lille Europe (Expedia 8.8) because it was only $66 this time. I came back to Lille to have options in France. I went with my first choice and bought a ticket to Caen (change in Rouen) for 58E. I moved on to things I missed last time. The Marche de Wazemmes first. I had a quiche choufleur fourme at Le Fournil Bio stall and gyoza at Gambatte stall. I got a little lost going there and back. Saw Eglise Sacre Coeur on the way. Made my way past the Opera to La Rue de Monnaie past the Hospice Comtesse to St Andre to Jemmaps to the Charles de Gaulle Birthplace. Back to his plaza and nearby I had a framboise sorbet at Jeff de Bruges for 2E. Dinner and wine from Carrefour.
The next day I awoke early to catch a 7am train to Caen. I stayed at the Hotel de la Paix (Booking 7.0) for two nights at $70 per. Caen was compact. This was near the Castle/Chateau. I went first to the tourist office next to Eglise St Pierre. Then around and into the "Chateau". It was free. This was William the Conquerer's base when he was Duke of Normandy (1660). I then walked through town to his Abbaye aux Hommes. Attached to it is St Etienne. He is buried there. Back past the Palais de Justice and a street one above the way I came. Got dinner and wine at Carrefour.
The next day I went to the Sunday market next to the hotel. Had 6 unplump Blainville Sur Mer oysters from Huitres Yann Couillard stall for 8E. Was given a free foul tasting (tampered?) falafel from Nour Echam stall. A Normande galette with andouille and Camembert for 6.50E at Les Delices de Malau stall. I thought it would be a link wrapped in galette like the basic one. It was slices. I walked past the Chateau/Castle (no tourist signs) to the Memorial de Caen WWII Museum. It didn't seem worth the 21E. Back to town to the Abbaye aux Dammes/St Trinite. Mathilde the wife of William founded this and is buried in the attached church. Down past canals to the station to buy a ticket to Paris (45E). I found that most shops (including Carrefour though the hours open sign said otherwise) were closed. Grabbed the 5E meal deal again at BK. DCB with CB this time. They use reusable glasses and french fry holders!
The next day I took a delayed train to Paris St Lazzare. I stayed in Pigalle at the Villa Royale (Expedia 7.8) for $163 because they said it was $80 off. Nothing was cheap. It was pretty good. Just car street noise galore all night. Tried to eat at some places near by that came up when I searched best of the area. They were closed. Walked up to Sacre Coeur. Grabbed some salami at Mono Prix for a hangry lunch. Walked Clichy past Moulin Rouge south to Amsterdam to Hausmann to Galeries Lafayette. Saw there was a Pierre Herme there and I wouldn't have to find his shop that I saw on I'll Have What Phil's Having. Got a Tart Paradis for 8E. Sick packaging. Took it past Place Vendome to the Tuileries. Ate it in front of that balloon I think they had at the Olympics. Past the Louvre and down the Seine to Notre Dame. It is open but not finished. Scaffolding and cranes all along the outside. Back to hotel past Tour St Jacques and up Sebastopol to Poissoniere. Some food at Carrefour. Wine and more food at Mono Prix. Been to Paris many times. Did it all before.
The next day I went back to Condorcet for those recommendations. First to Babka Zana (also at Galeries Lafayette) for my first rugelach (chocolate and cinnamon) for under 2E. Great. Like a croissant and cinnamon roll mixed up. Then down the block to Mamiche for a Prince de Paris (ham, cornichon, butter, mustard) for 6E. Good ingredients. Line here was thirty deep. Across Condorcet to Gare du Nord. Bought a 13E plus 2E (card) ticket to CDG. Stayed at the Ibis (Expedia 8.0) for $232! I paid half that last time. Cheapest at airport. Should have checked/booked when I landed. Was $200 the day before. Flight was at 9am, so, I didn't want to be around Gare du Nord that early. Got my boarding passes printed at kiosk. Back to hotel.
The next day I flew out. It was an ok trip that gets better in remembrance. I was a bit antagonized most of the time. Probably because no BIG things to see or do. Weather probably didn't help. Incompetence in general also is creating travel anxiety about simple things like transportation. The French had a strike on the 10th and then were going to again the day after I left. Such brats. Exchange rate was up to $1.17 then $1.18. I spent 344E ($402) on Transport. $1419 on Hotels. Spent $65 on Rental Car to MCO and $120 on Taxi home (I probably could have negotiated this better). I let my return car rental expire because it was $110 and Hertz has been pissing me off. 260E ($304) on Food/Booze. 0E ($0) on Museums. 17E ($20) on Misc. $2761 Total.
Some new things I ate: Cheese - Gris du Perigord, La Buche de Poitou, Clemont Bleu and tomme de Pyrenees Noir. Pate - Porc aux Airelles, Crem Pate Groene Peper and Pate au Campagne. Charcuterie - Jambon de Savoie (their bad attempt at prosciutto) and Mosterd Gehakt (bad). Beer - Jupiter, Texels, Vieux Lille and Cristal Pils. Saw fish lasagna and mackerel with cream cheese.
*Neither Lufthansa or their bitch low fare offspring Discover offered any compensation for their flight issues.
No comments:
Post a Comment