I had the pleasure of eating (dinner only) at this Southern Publick House on Friday. The same team that runs The Ravenous Pig is responsible for this latest attempt to tame the old Harper's Tavern location. I had a pork rillette appetizer for $11 and a Stuffed Quail entree for $16. The pork cubes were served in a glass bowl with watermelon rind, tomato jam and collard bread (bread made with collards in the dough). It's that kind of place. It was intriguing. The mixture was accompanied by several slices of bread that are simplistically recounted as "garlic bread". It's probably more of a dish that needs to be shared, but, it was worth trying. The quail dish was a bit scanty for an entree. Obviously the quail is small, but, I expected a little more stuffing. The stuffing itself was supposed to be dirty rice. It tasted more like grits (a bit mushy). They surrounded it with zipper peas, a few teeny crawfish and a romesco (tomato) sauce. The sauce seemed a little superfluous or disconsonant. I suppose it was intended to add a bitter element. I'm not sure what would be more effective, but, I just didn't love tomato and beans (peas that look and eat like beans). The bird was cooked nicely. The menu was shockingly affordable. I think the highest priced item was a $18 rib eye. Maybe the portion size is small. I went for an expensive glass of wine (eclectic/superior selections) instead of getting my beef on. They serve three types of ham (high pedigree), fish, oysters, crab, veal rib meat and other viands. Most everything is dialed up a notch. This is food art. Sometimes this can rub me the wrong way, but, my bullshit meter didn't go off here. It's like comparing Jennifer Lawrence to Ellen Page. One comes off as a true, unaffected original (even though she looks like Leelee Sobieski or Hellen Hunt) and the other comes off as a snot. One does it because it is what comes naturally and one does it to try and prove she is better than you. Here, I would wager, they do it because it just feels right.
The place (I've usually liked most of the restaurants at this location) is sophisticated and approachable. The clientele was upscale and hipster. The dress was commensurate. They have kept the interior separated. The main dining room is grey with splashes of white and stained wood moldings (odd choice). I found the color scheme dreary. It probably plays better in the daylight, but, they aren't open then. A little dark. I asked if this was too enhances your other senses, but, that was not confirmed. Good thinking if it is. The back wall has elevated tables. Nice touch. The rest of the room has black stained, square tables. The room is broken into two areas by an open centerpiece. They have a seafood bar along the wall that separates the main room from the "bar" room. The kitchen is semi-exposed by a translucent/frosted window. It is in the back. The seafood bar has a pizza oven that I was told is used to cook the oysters. I assumed the oysters on the menu were raw bar oysters, but, maybe I read it wrong or they were talking about the fried oysters. The "bar" area is nice too. It has a room lengthed bar at the back wall with sit down tables in front of it. I think they were all hightops. They have a brewery in the back with a private table area inside. The brewery should trip my pretentiousness alarm, but, I've mourned the loss of The Mill for years so I am conversely happy to see some sort of resurrection. The place was packed at 8pm, yet, I didn't have to wait for a table (no reservation).
The service was excellent. I tried my best to stump my waitress, but, she knew more than I did. She never tired of my relentless pestering and did all the waitressly duties effortlessly. Dishes came out a perfect pace. The wait staff was dressed in jeans and white T shirts. A uniform that doesn't repress. They definitely had enough staff.
I think this place will continue to be a big hit (I'm not the first on these shores). It strikes the right chords. It's comfortably demanding. You will experience something for the first time here. The prices are good. The service is good. The setting is good. I can't think of a check box that isn't marked with a smiley face. It's in the conversation for my favorite restaurant in Central Florida. Find it. Uh oh, I just thought of one check minus. The parking situation sucks as always here. Overlook it.
No comments:
Post a Comment