Mister 01, Lake Mary *Italy Travel Notes

I tried this new (two or three weeks) pizza place on Lake Mary Blvd and International Parkway (old Peach Valley Cafe spot - they moved next door into the old Panera Bread location) last Wednesday at lunch. They only offer pizza, calzone (2), burrata, salad (6) and dessert (3). I tried a Matteo at $17 for a 13". It was good. Very thin. No crust. Little char. Very full of sausage (fresh). It also came with red onion and mushrooms. The mushrooms were a little dried out. Onions were sweet and crisp. Not a ton of cheese or sauce. I also had the 8" cheese for $7. Same thinness. Sometimes the tiny ones seem not to stay stretched out. The pizza were good. A bit too reminiscent (visually) of a conveyor belt pie. That is one issue. 13" is too small for me as well. Especially at these prices and this thinness. The 8 incher was less than half the cost of the 13. Weird math. Half the price for more than half the size. Usually they give you less of a price break for the tiny option. A large plain cheese is $14. Magherita is $16. 5 at $16. 6 at $17. 12 at $19. Ones listed as "Star" are stuffed in the folded over triangles of the crust. $19. Burrata bar runs $15 to $18. They have one Caprese at $13. Desserts runs $13 to $18. Calzones are no bargain at $19. Salads range from $10 (Caesar) to $15. The place looks modern. White. Windows. Wood. They removed the counter seats. Extended the open kitchen out. The rest of the floor plan is the same. Rectangular. Kept the patio. Open for lunch and dinner. Had some wine. Cooks in white lab coats. You can tell that they take themselves seriously. I didn't hate it. I expected what I received. I was ready to have the reservations (more because of artisinal pizza ennui) that I retain. No surprises. They have locations in Miami, Melbourne and Boca Raton. I'm glad they are here, but, I'm not sure how many times I will be enticed to shell out $17 for the equivalent weight of two or three "regular" pizzeria slices. Maybe the 8 incher now and again? 

*Travel Notes (Continued) - Italy (Florence, Venice, Trieste and Padua): I should say that I've been to the first two places a few times. So, I was finding things I hadn't seen or seeing things again. I took the train from Rome to Florence for 50E. There are two choices - Italo or Tren Italia. I found Italo cheaper and newer and faster (150 mph+) every time. They have helpers by the kiosks (offices too). You have to go to an office (and lines were usually longer) with Tren Italia. Their kiosks were always buffering or wouldn't work properly. I made changes with both companies with no issues or fees. I stayed at the Hotel Palazzola (Expedia 7.4) near the station (because of poor weather forecasts) for three nights at $222. I ate a prosciutto (really ham) and mozzarella calzone (fried dough) at Antica Friggitoria. It was raining, so, I did nothing that day. The next day, I walked up past the US Embassy and crossed the Arno at the last bridge. I found the location (one bridge down) of a restaurant (will describe later) on Rick Steves. Too early for lunch, so, I walked down the Arno to Trinta Bridge (this and a few other sites were called out in Aaron's Rod by DH Lawrence). Over to Pitti Palace. Bought a pass to Boboli Gardens for 7E (it said 10E on sign). Short line. Walked that. Good views. In the last Professor Langdon book. Over the Ponte Vecchio and past the Uffizi (been). To the Museo Nazionale del Bargello (11E). Saw many famous sculptures (including Donatello's David which was the first nude since the Dark Ages). Walked by the Museo Casa di Dante. Ate a porchetta and a salsiccia cruda (raw pork) e melanzane schiacciate (type of bread for sandwich) at I Fratellini di Firenze. Very popular. Since 1875. One sandwich would have been enough. 6E per. They sell 30. Through the streets around there. Past the Duomo. I passed the arch/market stalls/wild boar statue at Piazza della Repubblica (where Hannibal Lecter sliced up the pickpocket). And more than once over the weekend. Past Basilica di San Lorenzo. Up to Museo di Basilica di Sant Marco. Closed. I'll get back to that. Over to (and past because huge lines) Galleria dell'Academia. Popped into a free exhibition (Viaggio di Luce) at Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Back to other side of Basilica di San Lorenzo to Cappelle Medicee. Paid 10E to see the Medici Tombs including Michaelangelo's Day Night Dusk Dawn, etc for Lorenzo Medici. Over to Palazzo Vecchio. The David there is a replica. The real one is at the Galleria dell'Academia. Pam Market for dinner. The next day I went past the Mercado Centrale. It was closed. Though the sign said it shouldn't be. Back to Basilico di San Marco. The museum there is open every second Sunday (in addition to the other days). Lucky for me it was one of those. Paid 9E to see Fra Angelico's murals, etc (in the monks' cells). Savonarola was the head here. They have his cell. Up Via Gallo to see the hotel Rick stayed at (I tried to stay here later on, but, they only offered shared bathrooms) and the restaurant (Trattoria Tito) he went to (too early for lunch). Back to center. Had an "Adulatrice" Tuscan Rigatino (bacon) and Gorgonzola Cream Cheese with Argula and Zucchini Schiacciate at a place across from I Fratellini. It had long lines the day before too, so, I guessed it was good. It was better. 6E at I' Girone de' Ghiotti. They had 18 options. I tried to get into the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (will get back to that later), but, I left when they demanded credit card payment. It was cold and rainy, so, I went back to hotel to eat my sandwich in peace and warmth. Sacked up and did an evening stroll back to Loggia at Palazzo Vecchio and re-saw Cellini's Perseus with Medusa's Head. Over to Basilica di Santa Croce by accident. Forgot Machiavelli and Michaelangelo were buried there. Reminded later on. Over river (past Biblioteca). Contemplated Piazza Michaelangelo. Didn't. Bought dinner and wine at Conad  here because Carrefour around me was pitiful. Up river to hotel. 

Went to Venice (53E). Stayed at Carnival Palace Hotel (Expedia 9.2) for two nights $220. Walked to Saint Mark's Square. Re-saw Rialto, Basilica, Palazzo Ducale, Biblioteca, Winged Lion and St Teador Statues, Campanile, Clock Tower, Square, etc. You follow the arrows there. Go in reverse on the way back. The next day I went to the waterfront in the north (below Murano). I was going to take a ferry to Murano or Lido, but, the weather was gross. 25E for all day ticket or 9.50E for a 75 minute one. Mostly sold via machines. Walked back to St Mark's. Saw the Arsenal. Found a path along the south waterfront towards Lido. Great walk. May be my favorite thing to do now. There are parks that way. Back to St Mark's. Paid 10E to go atop the Campanile. Great call. Always inaccessible (lines) in summer. No line at all now. Greatest photos/videos from up there. Back to hotel. Got a little lost. Had a chocolate cannoli and salame al chocolato (looked like a slice of salami) at Pastacceria Bar Targa. Fried tuna ball, and a fried pop over like dough filled with anchovy and one with ham and cheese at Acqua & Mais. 

Onto Trieste the next day. 31E RT on Tren Italia. Italo said it doesn't go there. Maybe just this station (Santa Lucia). I saw trains from Trieste on boards later. Maybe from (or through) the other station in Venice? Trieste wasn't as posh as I expected. More Arab refugees everywhere. On Slovenia border. I stayed at Hotel Roma near the station (Expedia 7.6) for two nights at $113. Went to the waterfont/marina. Canal Gran. Piazza della Unita Italia. Eataly. Walked back through center. Not much to see. The next day I took the # 2 bus (there is also a #4 bus and they said a #2 tram that wasn't in service) for 2.80E RT (bought in a small shop) to an obelisk up the hill to the Strada Napoleonica. I saw on Joseph Rosendo's show. I don't think he started here. I think he drove to where I turned around (Santurio di Monte Grisa). It is a cliff side walk that Napoleon used. Goes to Prosecco, etc. I did about five miles because the weather was threatening. Back to city. Walked up Scala de Giganti to Castello di San Giusto, Cattedrale di San Giusto, JJ Winckelmann Antiques Museum (free). Back down hill to Foro Romano, Canal Gran and Chiesa di Sant Antonio Nuovo. 

Onto Padua (because they overstated a train strike) the next day. 4E. Stayed at Hotel al Cason (Expedia 8.2) near station for $63. Had Spinach and Mozzarella Carlocciata (kind of a calzone) and a Bolognese (flaky prosciutto, mozzarella, egg and tomato sauce pastry) at Sicilian Goodness. Over to Prato delle Valle, Basilica and Abbazia di San Giustina, Basilica di Antoni and a park by the walls. It's a walled city. Taming of the Shrew. 

Back to Florence for a day. 48E. Stayed at horrific Aurum Hotel (Expedia 7.6) for $72 (60% off). Had 20E lunch of beef tenderloin and arugula salad at Antico Ristoro di Cambi on other side of river. On Rick Steves. Great steak. They did charge for the bread and water though. Down Arno to Piazza di Michaelangelo on top of a hill. Was easy to find. Had signs. Up the hill a bit to Chiesa di San Salvatore al Monte and Basilica di San Miniato. Even better views. Back to Duomo. Sucked it up and bought a 15E ticket (cheapest one) to Duomo, Santa Reparata (basement), and Museo dell Opera del Duomo. At Museo I saw original doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello's Mary Magdelene, Michaelangelo's final Pieta, et al. FYI there is a bathroom on the third floor and a roof deck above that. Had a lampradotto (tripe that looks like lamprey eels) sandwich for 5E at a stand near the station called Panino Mondiale. It is the city's speciality. Not bad. Saw Basilica Maria Novella on the way out. 44E to Rome. 

Some other things I sampled: Pre-mixed Campari (bitter) and soda and Aperol Spritz (a bit less bitter). Cheese: Tomino de Boscaiolo, Latteria Nostrano, Toma Piemontese, Puzzone di Moena, Pecorino Cacio Nero, Dobbiaco Starga, Asiago, Stracchino. Meat: Carpaccio de Bresoala, Affettati Speck Stagionato, Spinata Romana, Lonza Stagionata and anchovy paste (worst thing I've ever bought). Didn't drink that much wine because I had no corkscrew and they offered up few screw tops. If anything is mis-spelled or described it is because they did so on their signs or maps. I'm just transcribing. Aperol was 9E there vs say 18L at Gatwick airport. Santa Margherita wine (6 kinds too) was 8.50E. 7.25E on sale at one place. +$20 here! And treat yourself to a look at a singer named Elodie. Weather was hit and miss. Only needed the jacket on one day. Poncho a bit more. Walked around in shorts most of the time. Leaves hadn't truly changed color yet. Vines were all bare. Hotels way less than Spain. Market food/wine a bit more. Varied even inter-city. Aldi was way cheap with the best selection. Most markets were smallish (city) versions.

Big Mike's Burgers, New Smyrna Beach *Italy Travel Notes

I tried this fast food play on West Canal St (land side of Intercoastaland US1) that was lastly a donut spot on Wednesday at lunch. It opened this summer. I think I've now provided you with reports on all the restaurants, etc in town. I had the Classic CB for $9. It came with two patties (they all do), cheese, pickles, yellow onions, lettuce, ketchup, mayo and mustard on a pretzel bun. It was the anti-Papi Smash Burger. The patties were large (over 1/4 lb) and thick and juicy. The veg fresh. The pretzel bun was moist and glossy (the best one I've had). It came out quickly. It is a smash burger. They have around eight kinds. Ones with chili, bacon, etc. A few bucks more. Waffle fries too. You can them covered with similar toppings. They start at $4 for a small (plain). Several hot dogs too. Around $6 or $7. Drinks. That's it. It's a drive thru looking place. White paint and red lettering. Some umbrella'd tables in front. Some parking. Open every day (except Sunday) from 11 to 7 (or so). Dogs welcome. It got pretty packed. May make the Favorites.

*Travel Notes - Italy (Rome): I'm going to split this trip in two posts. I flew to Rome on Delta for $525. Through JFK and back through Atlanta. Afternoon flights. I spent the first two and last two days in Rome. The first day was sunny. The rest were cloudy. I stayed the first two nights at iffy Hotel Nizza (6.8 on Expedia) near the Termini Station for $180 in total. Italy forces you to pay an extra local tax to the hotel directly (usually in cash). I took the train in for 14E. You go up a level and across a bridge. Validate the ticket at a machine on other side of scanner. I've done most of the A level and B level sites already. I was cleaning up the lesser known things. Things I've learned of through Rick Steves, etc or were highlighted on the free map or I'd see on a street sign. It was hard to find legitimate ATM machines. Don't use the ones in the airport either. I started with the Teatro dell'Opera, Basilica di S. Prassede (mosaics), Giardini Nicola Calipari, Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli (Pope Julias II tomb with Moses by Michaelangelo), Trajan's Baths, Domus Aurea, Chiesa di S. Andreae al Cielo, Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo al Cielo, park above them, Circo Massimo, Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin (Mouth of Truth), some park across from there, Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, margherita and soppressata pizza slices at Alice's Pizza al Taglio (turned out to be a franchise), Sta. Caecilia (early martyr), Synagogue, Portico di Octavia, Theater of Marcellus and back to hotel. Started with Basilica Santa Maria Sopre Minerva near Pantheon (Michaelangelo and Lippi art work). It was closed. Panzerotti (bad) at McD's. On to Ara Pacis (a new museum that I peeped in the window at the main attraction for free), Mausoleo Augusto, Chiesa Santa Maria del Popolo (Davinci Museum - didn't go in), Borghese Garden, Borghese Gallery (learned that they have 13 spots at 5pm if you wait in a line - it was too early to wait), Palazzo Margherita/US Embassy, San Carlo Quattro Fontane, Museo Palazzo Massimo (9E). Ate local goods from Carrefour both nights. Hard to find any screw top wines. No corkscrew. Came back from the north ten days later. Stayed at terrible B&B Hotel Roma Italia Viminale (8.4 on Expedia) on Via Nazionale for $127 for two nights. Past Mercati Traianei (now free part of Forum) and Monumento a Vittorio Emmanuele II. Back to Trastevere district and Jewish ghetto area. Thought it was on other side of the river. It is not. On synagogue side. Ate a terrible 9E pastrami sandwich at Fonzie (four cold, paper thin slices). Was going to eat at either Baghetto Milky Kosher or Il Boccione Bakery (both on Rick Steves), but, it was Sunday and both had huge lines. Back across the river. Went back to both churches. Caecilia was open this time. Up the river to Castel Sant Angelo. I was going to walk up the river to the Olympic Stadium. They had it closed off, so, I tried a detour past the Vatican. Thought I got lost. Ended up at the stadium (and Italian Open) Stadium. Also saw the observatory. Took the bike path along the Tiber back to Piazza dei Popolo and did the passagata down the Corso and through Quirinale and back to the hotel. The next day I took the Blue Line Metro from Termini to EUR Palasport Station (1.40E for 100 minute ticket at kiosk - some took cash). Mussolini built a model city here. It's funny. Fendi is one of the buildings now. Facist to fashion. Find the Marconi obelisk. Basilica Santi Pietro e Paolo a Via Otiense here too. Metro was safe. Area is nice. Back to Circo Massimo stop. To see where bus (119 to Appian Way, etc) leaves from. Next time. Weather seemed too iffy. Past Forum. Line too long. Peeped in. Arco di Tito, etc. You can see alot for free. Up the hill to Chiesa di San Bonaventura. Back down. Back to Domus Aurea. Found entrance. Closed. Back to S. Pietro in Vincoli (chains) to see the statute. It was closed (opens again in the afternoon at 3pm) last time. Had 1.69E container of lemon sorbet from Elite market (vs 5E for a scoop of gelato). Back to hotel. The next day I took train to airport for 14E. They are working on it on some days. Double check if it is running. Breakfast of scrambled eggs with bacon and muffin at McD's at Termini. Half the price as US. I'll mention any other new foods, etc at the end of the next set of notes. I'll end by saying that Rome air quality is poor. Makes you feel ill. Kills your sinuses and throat. Cigarettes and carbon monoxide. I swear they would make it their air freshener if they could. It was still pretty packed with tourists. Chinese are back. Prepare for next pandemic. Isn't there already a new pneumonia there? Appian Way, Catacombs, Baths of Caracolla, Ostia Antica (day trip) left to see. Maybe Vatican and Borghese museums? Maybe Italian Open?

Jalisco Town, Lake Mary

I tried this Mexican spot in the Publix strip mall on Weldon (it runs through SSC) at 17-92 two Mondays ago at dinner. It was ok. I tried the three item assortment with rice and beans for $12.50 to go. I tried the chicken tamales, ground beef burrito and chicken chalupa. All were large. Two items would have done the job. The chicken was that stringy white stuff these places must all get from the same source. Ground beef was just that. Cheese was horrible. Bad salsa. Yucky white sauce. Ranch? They have a predictable menu. Nine tables on the left side. A bar and six tables on the right. Modern look. Open for two years. JAMMR.

Grub Crawl - Downtown: Ding Tea and Papi Smash Burger

I tried these spots on Monday at lunch. The first is near the rear of the court house. The second is on Pine Street attached to the bar called Basement. I also looked to see if Leiah or Drake had opened. They were working on Drake. I doubt Leiah will ever open. Hilton folks didn't seem to think so. 

Ding Tea - A Taiwanese chain. I only tried it because of what I wrote above. I was only going to get a beverage so I wouldn't have to at Papi.  A banh mi was only a dollar or two more, so, I did that instead. Pate and pork roll one for $7.50. Good. Took forever though. Only two people. And they had their kid splayed out in a bed behind the counter. They also sell all those stupid juices and teas. Many flavors. Probably all syrups. Perfect for grown baby's baba. They also had shrimp at $17 and cheese fries and takoyaki and popcorn chicken and a few other snacks from $8. I saw the chicken and fries. They looked ok. Portion size was ok. They probably inherited a sloppy build. Lots of poor workmanship. Like cracked floors. They tried to make it look hip. They put books on shelves, etc. It already looks dirty though. And they can't have been open for more than a few months. They might be Vietnamese. Some of the books were. It's an odd hodge podge.

Papi Smash Burger - I knew this would be overpriced mediocrity and it was. $12 for a Shake Shack/Freddy's burger. It was their cheapest too. Two, very salty paper thin patties with some cum sauce and cheese. They call it the OG. As in Ohmy God that is a rip off? And it took forever! The one drugged out, frosted hair smasher only put two patties on at a time. And he kept going for a stroll. And two people were already in the queue. The worst part was that I had to suffer through cranked up Cuban club music for the whole time. They have a few more burgers and two chickens and fries. Small footprint. Opened in March. I think from Miami. Another dud from there. They need to slash their prices in half and hire more employees. 

*I should add that I first tried (for the third time) this Pho Ga Hien Vuong that I swear The Orlando Weekly has twice said was open (as long ago as the summer). It isn't. And I thought it was banh mi place. Google says it is open every day but Tuesday from 10 am. A place to the right of it that I wrote about on July 31 2018 is. That place is called Huong Viet. Am I missing something? 

Grub Crawl - Altamonte Springs and Apopka: Stonington's Fried Shrimp and Nauti Lobstah *Spain Travel Notes

I tried these spots on Wednesday night and Thurday afternnon. The first is in a strip mall south of 436 on 434. It runs perpendicular to 434, so, you can't see it from the street. An Outback Steakhouse was across the street. Near a Metro Diner. The second is in a place that was the Catfish House or something like that. You make a right after the bbq place (Porkie's?) on 436 onto Forest Ave. After a McDonald's. 

Stonington's Fried Shrimp - I ordered the three piece shrimp with three piece fried chicken strips and two sides for $11.55. I think they gave me five pieces. I was eating blindly on the way home after a long series of plane trips and lost track. I recall both being ok. They butterflied the shrimp. The chicken tenderloins were a bit dry and chewy. A selection of honey mustard and a sweet garlic (?) dipping sauces. I had french fries and the six cheese mac and cheese as the sides. Plenty of fries. They coated them in that icky starch, but, I guess I was so hungry that I didn't mind. Mostly fried to completion. The mac was in a metal tin. Good. Pasta was to temp. It came out pretty quick. It was near closing, so, they could have half assed it just to get rid of me. It didn't seem like the did. They also fry cod, oysters and crab cakes. Corn bread, chop salad, onion rings, spicy red beans and rice and cole slaw as other sides. Shrimp only orders come in 5, 10, 15, 25 qnd 50 pieces. Shrimp platters in 5, 8 and 11 pieces. Mixed platter in 3 and 5. Cod in 4 pieces. Prices run from about $8 to $25. Lunch Special (includes drink) at $10.50. The place is basic. Both walls have five booths. In between are two rows of five tables. TV. Open for seven years. Open seven days a week. Until 9pm. They have a bigger place on South Kirkman. I may have gone there. Seems familiar. They added a 50 cent cc fee. Pretty good meal.

Nauti Lobstah - I almost drove here the night before. It closes at 8pm. I wouldn't have made it and been pissed. I grabbed a fried shrimp po boy with a side for $12 because it was a value compared to the $12 lobster bisque bowl (one of the cheaper items). It was ok. I can't really opine one way or the other because I didn't eat the shrimp until that night and they were soggy by then. They looked good (and likely were) when I got it. Plus I ate the bread and l and t at lunch the day after. The bread (roll) was buttered. L and T could have been fresher. Tartar or cocktail sauce on the side. Didn't try them. Ate the shrimp with the leftover Stonington sauces. The shrimp were small. Uncut. No idea if they are bought breaded or not. I had mashed potatoes as the side. Good. Real ones. Skin on. Garlic-y. Chunky. They said this portion of the menu (ie fried stuff) was left over from the old place. I think I had catfish there. This is where the cheaper items are. I just couldn't get the other items to go as I had already had 62 pieces of sushi at Koy Wan for lunch and it wouldn't have been eaten until dinner (if at all that day). Plus the prices required trust. And it is a catch 22. I need them to prove they are worth the upcharge and I can't get that unless I gamble. That's not going to happen on my side. They need to give out samples or make low priced small portions to grease the wheels. I'm not dropping $60+ on lobster thermidor in a wood shack in the middle of Apopka. Nor $28 for a lobster roll or $35 for a one pound lobster that I saw selling (at a seafood market) in Maine this Spring for $7 a pound. A grouper sandwich with two sides I just ate in the Keys for $11 was over $30 here. They also put Ritz Crackers on things. As if that is a sign of refinement. The guy is from Rhode Island. He was there. They opened two years ago. Three rooms. Wood. Didn't seem to change much inside. Service was pleasant. About one eighth full. No Sunday or Monday. I guess the Nauti is word play. Nautical. It probably could have stayed the Catfish House as far as I'm concerned. 

*Travel Notes - Spain: I flew to Barcelona through JFK for $525 on Delta. I'll list the airfares here. I bought a RT to Madrid on Vueling for $80. Didn't end up using the return. Madrid to Sevilla on Iberia for $57. Sevilla to Barcelona on Vueling for $54. Most purchased close to departures. Had to buy one ways because three city ones were $400+. Stayed night one at the Hotel Brick on Gran Via Cortes Catalanes near Placa d'Espana for $167. Prices were insane! Plus they charge city tax separately. This was the cheapest. Took the Metro from airport for 5.15E. You had to transfer at Torrassa Station. Walked down to the port because room wasn't ready. I can't list all the spots I saw because this report would never end. Get a map and get on it. Once again I ate mostly from the supermarkets. I'll list oddities at the end. Woke up and took Metro (from Espana) to Montserrat. 25E-ish for the RT and gondola ride. It's a famous Cloister. Aeri station stop. Funicular may be faster. Takes about one hour. You can connect from other stations in Barcelona. Don't take the tours they offer at 40E+. I slept there at Hostal Abat Cisneros because of the prices in Barcelona. It cost $78 and was fun to be up there. I walked many miles of the trails up there as well. Ate a good lunch of 1/4 pollo with french fries at La Cafeteria. They had services up there. Back to Barcelona. Found a "deal" on Expedia for the Caledonian Hotel (same street) near Universitat Station. $237 for two nights. I thought this was at the final stop from the airport called Zona Universitaria that didn't require a transfer. It was not. Ok area though. Near Placa Catalunya. Went to the top of this mall called Arenas. Looks like one. Good photo ops up there. Walked north on Balmes to Tibidabo. It's an amusement park on the highest hill. Great vistas. Park is more charming than cheesy. Has a Temple up there. You take a 12E funicular there. Around 30E for park pass. Not worth it. You can walk it for free. The next day I walked to La Sagrada Familia and Placa de Toros and over to Torre Agbar area. Then down towards water on Rambla de Poblenou. Ate a slice of pizza at Madre Levito. Down to the beaches. Back to center along the beaches. Had McD's. Through Port Olimpic. Goldfish statue. To W Hotel. Through old town. Ate pollo almendra and xiao long bao at Pai Mei. Woke. Metro to airport. Idiots made us an hour late because they didn't move the loading ramp. 203 Bus from Madrid airport to Cibeles stop for 5E. Prices were high here too. Found Hostal Palacios on Fuencarral. $254 for three nights. A bit spartan. Good location. Right off Gran Via. I needed this central area because the bus pick up location for the tours I was taking was near the Palace (down Gran Via). Went to the office. Bought tickets for the Segovia/Avila tour (55E) and Escorial and Valley of the Fallen (62E). These tours are why I came back to Madrid. Ate curry chicken taco with peanuts and cochinita pibon (their spelling) with pickled onions taco at Trek Taco on Gran Via. 1.50E. Woke up and went to Segovia. Roman aqueduct and Alcazar (I didn't take their option and bought entry myself there and saved about 13E) are the highlights. Ate a Hojaldre (puff pastry) con jamon and queso at Limon y Menta. Onto Avila. Idiots on the tour took too long at lunch and there was a car accident and it started to rain, so, the tour was short. Only 45 minutes. I split off. Avila is a totally walled city. Known for St Teresa and yemas (egg yolk sweets). I bought yemas. Wished we had more time and/or stopped outside the city for a photo op. Took other tour. Not as good. Escorial is a monastery/summer palace/burial place. They still have a real king. Walked the grounds (basilica, tombs, etc). Onto Valley of the Fallen (Valle de los Caidos). Their Arlington/Gettysburg. Franco was buried there. They moved him out three years ago. A trippy masoleum. Big cross. Back to Madrid. Ate at Trek Taco again. Curry chicken again, pollo a la mostaza with potato sticks taco and chili carne taco. The tour was only a half day, so, I walked some areas I didn't go to last year and areas in the park I missed as well. Found a mercado (Latin/South American stuff) near Trek Tacos called Mercado los Mostenses. Had some time before flight out the next day, so, I walked to train station. Had Tostada Tortilla and McPops at McD's. 5E bus back to airport. Weather was colder and gloomier in Madrid. Onto Sevilla. These idiots made us two hours late because of a microphone failure. In at dark and rain. Took 4E bus from airport to Plaza de Armas (last stop). Stayed near there off San Eloy at cute Hotel Un Patio Al Sur for $287 for two nights. Prices high here too. Found a tour operator and booked tours to Jerez/Cadiz (99E) and Zahara/Ronda (79E) starting a day and a half later. Did this because buses to these places weren't running on the weekends (or at all) and I was a bit scared there would be issues with them. Train station seemed too far away. Almost chose to go to Faro Portugal. It was 40E RT. Walked the city. Mercado de la Encarnacion (awesome structure above it), Cathedral, Alcazar, etc. Moved hotels to NH Sevilla (even nearer the bus station) to be nearer the tour pick up spot. Room was "discounted". Three nights for $430. Let me in at noon. Went along river to Plaza de Toros, Torre del Oro, Plaza de Espana, etc. Ate an empanada Africane at Empanaderia at Mercado Lonja del Barranco. Walked across the river through an area called Triana. Went to Mercado de Triana on the spot where the HQ for the Inquistion once was. At days end, I read a book on NH roof garden. Watched the sunset. I had been to Sevilla once before, so, I was just refreshing. Gardens were mostly closed because of storm damage. That was a shame. It was hot here. Started tour. We went to a sherry bodega (Bodegas Ligures) in Jerez a la Frontera. 4 kinds of sherry (fino, olarosa, almontilado, cream) and a vermouth. All made from Fino Palamino grape. Then into the city proper. Cathedral, plazas, church, Tio Pepe Sherry HQ, Alcazar. Only 15 minute tour in rain. Onto Cadiz. Same sort of things plus ocean. Walked to the end. Ate a chicken and turkey empanada at Piggy. The next day I went to Zahara de la Sierra. White houses. Beautiful area in the mountains. Molina El Vinculo live oil bodega. Same sites. Resevoir. To another pueblo called La Sierra de Grazalema. They ate lunch. I walked the town. Bought some cubilete de chocolate (kind of a shortbread with a chocolate center) at Ibericos Grazalema. Saw trees they use for cork. They shave the bark off the lower half of the tree. Onto Ronda. This is considered the birthplace of bullfighting. Hemingway loved it. Great little city. Started at Plaza de Toros. Walked to Main Gate and back under the wall by Arab baths to the three bridges around this huge ravine/stream. Great photo ops. Up the main drag. Etc. Cookies from this bakery in a church. Back to Sevilla. Bus to airport in the am. Plane to Barcelona. Stayed along the Metro route at a stop closer to airport called Parc Nou. Stayed at Centre Espial Albergue for $85. Metro to airport in the am. No discount for being closer. Full trip. Still many tourists everywhere. Drank much wine. Some for 2E. Some 7E. Most around 5E. Food: Xorico Culatalls, Verduras Asadas (turned out to be vegetable fake meat), Ibericos Pate, Navajas (razor clams), Boquerones (sardines), Poton del Pacifico (Humboldt Squid), Agujas (Gar fish), Almejones (clams), Lomo Horno Pimiento, Bacalo Ahumado, Mortadella with green olives, Lonchas, Gublins (corn chips), Formatge Barreja and Queso Cabrales. Plus the usual cured meats. The jet stream was screaming, so, the flight there was way shorter and the way back much longer. Customs at Barcelona (out) took an hour. Two minutes at JFK. Delta can never leave on time. They blamed the tower in NY this time. I'm not sure if they ever explained the other delays.