Friday, October 7, 2011

Rusty Spoon, Downtown - Closed/Rebranded as Elize (Closed)

I had lunch at this seasonal food restaurant near the train tracks on Church last Wednesday. I wanted it to be my new favorite location in all of Orlando and it came close. I had the soup of the day which was a spicy sweet potato puree with pecan brittle for $6 and a "Lake Meadow" salad for $9. The soup was a bit bland. I couldn't really taste the sweet potatoes. Mostly just a delayed hit of pepper that showed some proficiency. It definitely was not infused with dairy. The brittle was superfluous. It didn't melt (if was supposed to) and just became an annoying distraction that didn't help the dish. The "Lake Meadow" salad is a salad of escarole and spinach in a a warm bacon vinaigrette with chicken livers and a softly boiled whole egg. It was wonderful. The egg would be slightly overcooked for some traditionalists, but, I like the yoke somewhere between liquid and solid. The vinegar in the dressing was very light. You almost didn't notice it. There were gobs of thick cut bacon lardons. The chicken livers (not my thing but I'm trying) were silver dollar size and split in halves to create four pieces. They might have been a little soft. They have a strong, savory flavor that added a little panache. The greens were fresh and well washed. The portion was huge. Enough in itself. The constants through both dishes were a subtle hand on the seasoning, discernibly farm fresh ingredients and a bit of southern whimsy and ambition in the choices on the menu. The place seats about 80. I bet they could fit double that if they crowded the tables. The front faces Church St through floor to ceiling windows. There is a bar that separates it from a "room" in the back. There is a small intersection that has a view of the tracks and the waiters station. There may have been another interior room. The place is done up in a grayish earth tone with black and white photographs and abstract art that try to evoke that artisinal vibe you find in Napa or Pottery Barn. The ceilings are very high. The silverware is funky. The service was pretty good. All male. The prices were very reasonable. Even on the dinner menu, I think one thing was over $20. They say they change the menu frequently, but, keep some constants like a burger and fish and chips. They are about to change it for the Fall. And so why is it that it didn't become my new BFF? #1. A smarmy host named Douglas gave me the unceremonious affront of parking me next to the waiter's station in a half empty restaurant. After trying to pawn me off on the bar. I wasn't in a wife beater and cut off jean shorts. Let me say this once and for all for all you nearly retarded restaurant hosts: DO NOT EVER INQUIRE IF A SINGLE CUSTOMER WANTS TO SIT AT THE BAR IN A HALF EMPTY RESTAURANT. THEY DO NOT. IT IS NOT THE SAME EXPERIENCE AND IT IS AN INSULT! AND NOT ONE WE WANT TO SUFFER FROM A DOUCHE WHO HAS TO WORK AT (NOT EAT AT) SAID RESTAURANT. Assume that the customer's blood is bluer than yours. Which in this case is absolutely accurate. That single act erased a resevoir of good will. I had been waiting all summer to get back and try this interesting menu and I almost got up and left. #2. $3 soda. #3. The space. It's ok, but, it looks a little unfinished. They need a little more something before it gets a superior grade in that department. They need to hide that waiter station. It is an eye sore. #4. I think the waiters play pass the potentially small tip. I must have gone through three waiters until one stuck.

All in all, I love what they are all about. Sometimes this kind of seasonal, locavore nonsense can be pedantic. But, I just didn't get that vibe here. They weren't throwing it in your face or crowing about how "holier than thou" they are. I think they do it because it is a challenge and produces better results. I like the creativity. I'll be back. And the best part is if none of you like it I will probably get a healthier portion of "about to rot" locally grown produce on my plate. That's the good part about this movement. They don't freeze things for a rainy day if they don't get used. You get it, the staff gets it, a food bank gets it or Waste Management gets it. It rewards you for being a savvy eater. I encourage you to make time for this superlative player in Downtown. I'm trying to think of a better menu in all of Downtown, but, I can't. Pray it doesn't disappear along with almost everything good in this town.

No comments: