Monday, February 11, 2019

H Steakhouse, Dr. Phillips Area

I tried this Turkish steakhouse today at lunch. It's more than a steakhouse and more than Turkish. It is one of the most satisfying encounters I've had (anywhere) in a while. It's definitely going to be on the favorites list and is instantly in my top ten in CF (I haven't had the time to be precise yet). I had two appetizers because they don't really chase a lunch crowd (no lunch menu/pricing) and four of the appetizers seemed so scrumptious. I had the steak tartare with marrow bone (planned on having that) and the sweetbread with tagliatelle flamed in a parmesan cheese wheel. I chose the latter to try the pasta that is offered in two forms as an entrĂ©e. They make there own. The tartare cost $18. The quality of the meat was evident. If it was adulterated at all, it had olive oil in it. The real accoutrement was the marrow bone. Split in half and char-grilled, it was the best preparation of marrow I've ever experienced. Gone was the phlegmy (when roasted) like consistency and flavor. In place was unctuousness and umami. It created an interesting flavor profile when added to the raw beef. The hot/cold of the marriage was also interesting (if not symbolic). It came with some thin wafers (not sure if that is their lavash) whose exterior was a bit too gummy to be paired with the gummy tartare. An article I read said they were served sourdough bread with their tartare. I received that with the sweetbread. I'm not sure if they changed the elements or messed up or gave the first party the wrong accompaniment. I'm not sure sour dough would have worked. It did work with the "sauce" left over from the tagliatelle. That surprised me. The one criticism I could make is that maybe they over salted the marrow bone. But, it was good salt. The course was served on a beautifully rustic wood board. Which reminds me. They started me off with another beautiful wood board with grilled bread, Turkish olive oil, home made butter and a diced tomato and cucumber "salsa". All were fresh and tasty. They also do their own breads. The sweetbread was cleaned perfectly. Cooked perfectly as well. It was inventively incorporated into the aforementioned pasta dish. The portion size would be enough for most people as a main. I didn't get the table side cheese wheel flame show, but, I saw it done at an adjacent table a few minutes earlier. The rest of the menu blends steakhouse exuberance with recipes from central Italy and beyond. Apps had grilled octopus and a special kind of shrimp as stand outs. The mains included duck, veal, lamb and seafood with all of the choice cuts of beef (ie Tomahawk). The beef is aged in their own Himalayan salt aging room (visible behind glass). They call out their brand of grill. I haven't heard of  (and can't remember) it. I guess it is top of the line. The wine selection isn't "me too". Around 3X retail. The liquor is select. A little pricey (ie a Reserve Glenfiddich I just bought on sale for $32 at Winn Dixie was $30 a "pour" - granted my "Glen" wasn't the "reserve"). A soda was $3.50. They refilled.

The design is charming. A lot of wood. Darkish hues. Beautiful green fabric on the benches. Open floor plan. Exposed kitchen (in the rear). Small bar area in the left rear corner. Some outside seating. Seats around eighty inside and a dozen outside. The flatware and china were unique and stylish. I would try and hide a few eyesores a bit more, but, it is a well conceived dining area. The bathroom was basic and one person, but, nice..The place has been open for seven months. It is where the old Stephano's Trattoria was (near the Publix at the marketplace on Dr. Phillips off Sand Lake). It's named after the common last initial of the three owners. There were only two other diners and one waiter while I was there. That seems to indicate that lunch hasn't been too successful. I hope that isn't the case overall. They have spent a lot of money and put a lot of thought into this endeavor. Even the cooks have natty uniforms. They have hired talent and the menu is ambitious without being impudent. In a perfect world they would drop the prices across the board a bit (at least for lunch) and for some items in particular (duck and osso bucco). However, I'm willing to live in an imperfect world if it allows me surprises like this. I just suggest a price trim to make sure they don't wallow in obscurity. They don't need to set a price point to denote excellence. They are excellent and as such the can only help their brand by having as many people experience it as possible. The only thing they lack is a stunning locale. If they had that, then maybe they could support their current pricing. That said, I strenuously (like Demi Moore in A Few Good Men) recommend them and Valentine's Day is closing in and they are doing a special service in celebration. I didn't see the menu and hopefully it isn't a disappointment. If so, then shoe horn in some other justification for making a visit. You will say "what the H!"

*I tried a good Thai place (Coco) on I Drive on the way home. You will have to wait until I get back from Tahoe for that review. Also, saw that a Chronic Tacos (awesome San Diego beach area icon) opened on Sand Lake. Hope it's the same people.

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