I had lunch at this latest adaptation of Stone's Throw Bistro (now Italian) on Saturday and I'm conflicted about what to tell you about it. On one hand, my experience is that the hullabaloo over this chef and his contributions are a little exaggerated. On the other hand, I'm not sure I've received his best punch. On one hand, I'm irritated that I had to go re-review this location for the third time. On the other hand, I can see why he had to abandon the old plan. On one hand, I'm happy that he has returned to his roots. On the other hand, I'm pissed because wild game was the only thing that made the last place interesting and the last thing I want is another over priced Italian comfort food place reliant on some untrained grandma's idea of gastronomy. It's like some underground local rock favorite (who you never thought much of, but, appreciated that they stood for something internal) started playing Pop (or in this case Sinatra). It's just displeasing. Onto the food.
I had Chicken Siciliana for $10. It was a pounded chicken patty (or two) breaded (pan fried) and covered with fried eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella and a Marsala sauce. The chicken was well cooked (tender). The eggplant shed it's coating too easily (poorly coated or wet chicken or the pan wasn't hot enough) and somehow transmogrified into something tasting like cornmeal (though I was assured it could in no way be cornmeal). The prosciutto and mozzarella were lost in the dish. The Marsala sauce was too thick and too abundant. The meal came with a Tomato Basil soup that was spicy enough to be called Dry Italian Pepper soup. I didn't mind it, but, I wasn't expecting it and softer palettes may be overwhelmed by it. It also came with spaghetti with what supposed to be some extra special red sauce basted with meatballs, ribs and sausage. I didn't get any of that. It tasted like sour tomatoes. And yes I know the difference between fresh tasting sauce and sauce from a can. I'm not saying it was a bad sour just the sour you get when you don't do anything to it but warm it up. So, well cooked chicken is what you are left with when you rate this wunderkind of the kitchen. I can only tell you what he was serving up at that time of day on that particular day. Don't blame me. I really was hoping to like it/him. It's the one area you aren't expecting a mess up if you are going to see (re-see) a "headliner". The place itself looks much the same even though they are touting "significant" changes to local media. (*search for my review of Stone's Throw for more detail). It is still below par for a gourmet restaurant. The chairs are all notched and scarred. The windows are dirty. They have weird outlets exposed everywhere. There was a speaker by the hostess stand. They say there is a new bar, but, it didn't register. And trust me there were more pressing needs (unless you have changed direction in the clientele and reputation you are fishing for). Additionally, there are little flaws like the backs of the wall banquets being too high. The service (1) was fine. I was the only one there throughout the meal. They mentioned something about having to be there anyway to prep, so, they might as well serve lunch. They also didn't have anyone at the hostess desk and wouldn't display their lunch menu. I saw many customers look at the dinner prices and blanche. Maybe that is the problem. They don't really want you to be there at lunch. I would avoid it at that time. Then again I would avoid it at dinner because; the prices jump, it's another Italian offering that I don't want or need, I haven't seen a virtuoso performance from the chef in two tries and since I was the only one there and gave it a review like this I will definitely have my food spit in (if I wasn't recognized and that didn't happen already).
No comments:
Post a Comment