Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Bavaro's Pizza Napoletana, Winter Springs - Closed

I had dinner at this Italian restaurant on Tuskawilla (near Red Bug Lake Rd) on Friday. I was at surprised at the experience I encountered. I thought it was going to be some bohunk type pizzeria with a name that evokes indomitable Tight Ends more than quality dining. It turns out that this is a rather snazzy offshoot of a Tampa restaurant. It espouses quality sourcing and time worn techniques. The space is vibrant. The far wall of the open kitchen (you feel like you are in a teaching kitchen) is all copper. Then there is a bar acting as a dividing line. And finally a black toned dining area that is the the least impressive part of the room. It must seat around forty in all. That kitchen dominates the room. I will say that they do a poor job of hiding the eye sores in the kitchen. I would put the spices in non-surplus plastic containers. I would hide the plastic glass containers. That sort of thing. I sat at the bar (because it was full) and had a prosciutto pizza for $15. For all the bluster about their "process", I found it just ok. It was close on the cook time, but, lacked a crunch. The "prosciutto" would probably not qualify as such under Italian law. It was not aged long enough. Some kind of pre-sliced, slightly aged American impostor if I had to guess. I could live with the thrift if it didn't water down my pizza and turn the dough to paste. Too much water content! They topped it with flor di latte. I'm not sure if I've seen that appellation on cheese before. It was good. They make most of their pizzas with this fresh mozzarella like cheese. The sauce was just San Marzanos. The pizza oven was legit. They serve some pasta, but, it is mostly pizza. Parking is difficult as they share it with a Graffiti Junction. Service was good. I applaud the dedication to getting it right (zero flour, etc). I just wish it applied to all the components. I probably stumbled upon their one "accommodation" pizza. I'll presume they do the rest without abandoning their mantra. I'd encourage you to go. This level of pizza-ing isn't as rare as it used to be, but, it still needs to be acknowledged when it happens.

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